Living Room Spaces
7/14/14
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right now our main living space is still somewhat of a slow work in progress. the room is freshly painted a nice light grey and we were fortunate enough that the previous owners created some beautiful custom built in cabinets. after living in this space for a while, we finally feel ready to stock the nooks and crannies with some decor. whenever you move in with someone it takes a bit of time to figure out what your combo style is, and i think we've finally got a handle on that! we've also decided that it's high time to "retire" some of our old dorm room furniture that has been harbouring in this space and make room for more "mature" choices!
here is our room style board and where we finally hope to end up! #beforeandafterstocome
The Penny Paper Company - Don't Grow Up // The Bay - Stainless Cocktail Set // Polyvore - Black & Brass Bowl // Ikea - Stockholm White Lamp // Restoration Hardware - Vise Bookends // Persian Rugs Canada - Vintage Persian Rug // Pfeifer Studio - Leather Fringe Pillow // West Elm - Linen Sofa // Amazon - Rattan Basket Set // Urban Barn - Betina Grey Throw Blanket // Vintage Trunk - Thrift Store Find // Priced Right Fine Art - Blue Print |
Reno Report - Shopping for New Windows
6/17/14
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| image via here
We are now on our next phase of "big ticket item" reno's on our little old house. this second phase ... dun, dun, dun ... includes windows. brace for impact.
we've learned quite a lot over the last while. when we first bought our place we knew there were a few things that needed pretty immediate attention, and one of those was the upper and lower windows. for anyone who has done it, or is thinking of doing it, it is a big undertaking, but one that makes some serious improvements to curb appeal and energy efficiency in your home. since our windows were original from the 70's, you can but your bottom dollar they are NOT efficient.
when you start out looking for windows it's easy to become overwhelmed by the mass amounts of information. styles, colours, grilles/mullions, coated, wood, vinyl etc., etc., etc. our best advice would be to first set some ground rules and examine your timelines and immediate needs. we have come to learn that the recommend bang for your buck is to do a least a minimum of 4 windows. many good companies recognize that to do a whole house in one shot is difficult for most in terms of budgets, and therefore help you breakdown a process for over a year (or two or three). we like these companies best!
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in the past few weeks we have done a LOT of research and met with a LOT of companies. some good, some bad! here are some key things we have learned and tips to consider:
with all this good information, we now have some big decisions to make! wish us luck! we will share some before and after's when the first round of window's is in!
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Pull Down Prints
5/26/14
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| Photos via here |
i'm very obsessed recently with the fact that pull down prints have made a serious come back. my home decor style has always been a mix of modern and vintage, and pull down prints are a very easy way to add a little warm old world charm. some of the best selection i've seen so far has been on Etsy, so i recommend you check them out first. i don't know about you, but i'm especially drawn to the animal feather prints and would love to hang any pull down as a single or series of three on a wall. What a lovely look for any home office, study, or living room under some beautiful brass lighting.
Creating the Perfect Picture
5/5/14
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| images via here, here, here, here, here and here. |
so, i'm a bit of a commitment phobe ... especially when it comes to hanging art.
if
there is one thing i've learned it's always hang the things you love to look at most. no matter what else, if you follow this one thing, you'll never feel disappointed by your choices. while there is no REAL set rules on how you have go about showcasing art/photography on walls, successful designers often follow a few guidelines. at the core of it all it is about placing what you love in the right combination. however, if you are a sobby stress mess pile at the thought committing to putting holes in beautiful freshly painted walls and hanging up pictures, like i can be, then here are some helpful tips to consider that will give you that little bit of confidence.
// Height - the most common recommendation the professionals make is to hang art at eye level. if you are a shorty like me try and keep in mind the viewpoint of an average height person.
// Grouping - I love me some good groupings. this is where oftentimes we get a little stressed. since there is no real rules here, my best recommendations tend to be start with larger pieces and fill in with smaller. good groupings take proper planning before you hang. think of it as a one large art piece rather than individual items. this will help you focus on the end results and not get caught up in the process. grouping is a great way to give an modern look to your home. if you have a bunch of frames take out the display art inside and play around with placements by taping them up on your wall before you hang.
// Proportions - as a general rule of thumb you want to hang art that is proportionate to said area. for example it is not recommend that you hang over your sofa a canvas print that is significantly wider than what the sofa seats. on the flip side this rule does not apply when it comes to heights. there is a misconception that shorter sizes fit better in smaller spaces, when in actual fact taller prints can make your smaller space feel much larger.
Proportion…if
you are hanging art above a piece of furniture it is generally advised
to not use art that is wider than the furniture. A general rule of
thumb is to aim for the artwork to be between 50-90% of the width of the
furniture below. 75% is ideal, but anything in the suggested range is
usually safe. If your ratio is less than 50% then the artwork is too
small, if your ratio is larger than 90% the art is too big. Exception:
If you are hanging art above a grouping of furniture that is close
together you would use the total width of the furniture as your
guideline.
· Height…a well known rule of thumb is to hang artwork at "eye level" however, this is often misleading as we all vary in height. A better guideline is to hang the art so that the center of the art is at eye level for an average person, generally 60-65" from the floor. Most often art is hung too high, so if in doubt…hang lower rather than higher. If you are hanging art above a sofa or a table you will usually want to have about 6-12" between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the art.
Read more at http://studio5.ksl.com/?nid=59&sid=14755543#wmGTjPlUXjhoogMK.99
· Height…a well known rule of thumb is to hang artwork at "eye level" however, this is often misleading as we all vary in height. A better guideline is to hang the art so that the center of the art is at eye level for an average person, generally 60-65" from the floor. Most often art is hung too high, so if in doubt…hang lower rather than higher. If you are hanging art above a sofa or a table you will usually want to have about 6-12" between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the art.
Read more at http://studio5.ksl.com/?nid=59&sid=14755543#wmGTjPlUXjhoogMK.99
Proportion…if
you are hanging art above a piece of furniture it is generally advised
to not use art that is wider than the furniture. A general rule of
thumb is to aim for the artwork to be between 50-90% of the width of the
furniture below. 75% is ideal, but anything in the suggested range is
usually safe. If your ratio is less than 50% then the artwork is too
small, if your ratio is larger than 90% the art is too big. Exception:
If you are hanging art above a grouping of furniture that is close
together you would use the total width of the furniture as your
guideline.
· Height…a well known rule of thumb is to hang artwork at "eye level" however, this is often misleading as we all vary in height. A better guideline is to hang the art so that the center of the art is at eye level for an average person, generally 60-65" from the floor. Most often art is hung too high, so if in doubt…hang lower rather than higher. If you are hanging art above a sofa or a table you will usually want to have about 6-12" between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the art.
· Line….consider whether the space in question needs the illusion of horizontal expansion or vertical height, then choose your artwork accordingly. Diagonal lines are sometimes needed for spaces such as stairways. Areas that are irregular in shape and line are a great place for round artwork, mirrors or wreaths. Round shapes soften angular areas and help to avoid the problem of rectangular art looking crooked.
· Grouping… this can be tricky but can also have amazing visual impact. A group of pictures should be thought of as one cohesive "unit. An easy trick for creating a grouping is to trace each individual piece of art onto paper and then cut out the shapes. Using these paper shapes you can arrange them on the floor, or even directly onto the wall using some tape. This enables you to determine which arrangement you prefer without having to put dozens of extra nail holes in your wall. When you have found the desired configuration you can then lightly mark it onto your wall with a pencil.
· Tools for the job…my favorite hooks for hanging pictures are called "monkey Hooks" and they require no hammer or nail! These hooks are usually available at your local hardware store. If I am hanging art for a client I always make sure I have on hand a laser level, pencil, measuring tape, hammer, nails and picture hanging hooks for all different weights. If you have a picture that doesn't like to stay straight use some Sticky putty on the bottom corners. Adhesive felt pads are great to ha
Read more at http://studio5.ksl.com/?nid=59&sid=14755543#wmGTjPlUXjhoogMK.99
· Height…a well known rule of thumb is to hang artwork at "eye level" however, this is often misleading as we all vary in height. A better guideline is to hang the art so that the center of the art is at eye level for an average person, generally 60-65" from the floor. Most often art is hung too high, so if in doubt…hang lower rather than higher. If you are hanging art above a sofa or a table you will usually want to have about 6-12" between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the art.
· Line….consider whether the space in question needs the illusion of horizontal expansion or vertical height, then choose your artwork accordingly. Diagonal lines are sometimes needed for spaces such as stairways. Areas that are irregular in shape and line are a great place for round artwork, mirrors or wreaths. Round shapes soften angular areas and help to avoid the problem of rectangular art looking crooked.
· Grouping… this can be tricky but can also have amazing visual impact. A group of pictures should be thought of as one cohesive "unit. An easy trick for creating a grouping is to trace each individual piece of art onto paper and then cut out the shapes. Using these paper shapes you can arrange them on the floor, or even directly onto the wall using some tape. This enables you to determine which arrangement you prefer without having to put dozens of extra nail holes in your wall. When you have found the desired configuration you can then lightly mark it onto your wall with a pencil.
· Tools for the job…my favorite hooks for hanging pictures are called "monkey Hooks" and they require no hammer or nail! These hooks are usually available at your local hardware store. If I am hanging art for a client I always make sure I have on hand a laser level, pencil, measuring tape, hammer, nails and picture hanging hooks for all different weights. If you have a picture that doesn't like to stay straight use some Sticky putty on the bottom corners. Adhesive felt pads are great to ha
Read more at http://studio5.ksl.com/?nid=59&sid=14755543#wmGTjPlUXjhoogMK.99
Proportion…if
you are hanging art above a piece of furniture it is generally advised
to not use art that is wider than the furniture. A general rule of
thumb is to aim for the artwork to be between 50-90% of the width of the
furniture below. 75% is ideal, but anything in the suggested range is
usually safe. If your ratio is less than 50% then the artwork is too
small, if your ratio is larger than 90% the art is too big. Exception:
If you are hanging art above a grouping of furniture that is close
together you would use the total width of the furniture as your
guideline.
· Height…a well known rule of thumb is to hang artwork at "eye level" however, this is often misleading as we all vary in height. A better guideline is to hang the art so that the center of the art is at eye level for an average person, generally 60-65" from the floor. Most often art is hung too high, so if in doubt…hang lower rather than higher. If you are hanging art above a sofa or a table you will usually want to have about 6-12" between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the art.
· Line….consider whether the space in question needs the illusion of horizontal expansion or vertical height, then choose your artwork accordingly. Diagonal lines are sometimes needed for spaces such as stairways. Areas that are irregular in shape and line are a great place for round artwork, mirrors or wreaths. Round shapes soften angular areas and help to avoid the problem of rectangular art looking crooked.
· Grouping… this can be tricky but can also have amazing visual impact. A group of pictures should be thought of as one cohesive "unit. An easy trick for creating a grouping is to trace each individual piece of art onto paper and then cut out the shapes. Using these paper shapes you can arrange them on the floor, or even directly onto the wall using some tape. This enables you to determine which arrangement you prefer without having to put dozens of extra nail holes in your wall. When you have found the desired configuration you can then lightly mark it onto your wall with a pencil.
· Tools for the job…my favorite hooks for hanging pictures are called "monkey Hooks" and they require no hammer or nail! These hooks are usually available at your local hardware store. If I am hanging art for a client I always make sure I have on hand a laser level, pencil, measuring tape, hammer, nails and picture hanging hooks for all different weights. If you have a picture that doesn't like to stay straight use some Sticky putty on the bottom corners. Adhesive felt pads are great to ha
Read more at http://studio5.ksl.com/?nid=59&sid=14755543#wmGTjPlUXjhoogMK.99
· Height…a well known rule of thumb is to hang artwork at "eye level" however, this is often misleading as we all vary in height. A better guideline is to hang the art so that the center of the art is at eye level for an average person, generally 60-65" from the floor. Most often art is hung too high, so if in doubt…hang lower rather than higher. If you are hanging art above a sofa or a table you will usually want to have about 6-12" between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the art.
· Line….consider whether the space in question needs the illusion of horizontal expansion or vertical height, then choose your artwork accordingly. Diagonal lines are sometimes needed for spaces such as stairways. Areas that are irregular in shape and line are a great place for round artwork, mirrors or wreaths. Round shapes soften angular areas and help to avoid the problem of rectangular art looking crooked.
· Grouping… this can be tricky but can also have amazing visual impact. A group of pictures should be thought of as one cohesive "unit. An easy trick for creating a grouping is to trace each individual piece of art onto paper and then cut out the shapes. Using these paper shapes you can arrange them on the floor, or even directly onto the wall using some tape. This enables you to determine which arrangement you prefer without having to put dozens of extra nail holes in your wall. When you have found the desired configuration you can then lightly mark it onto your wall with a pencil.
· Tools for the job…my favorite hooks for hanging pictures are called "monkey Hooks" and they require no hammer or nail! These hooks are usually available at your local hardware store. If I am hanging art for a client I always make sure I have on hand a laser level, pencil, measuring tape, hammer, nails and picture hanging hooks for all different weights. If you have a picture that doesn't like to stay straight use some Sticky putty on the bottom corners. Adhesive felt pads are great to ha
Read more at http://studio5.ksl.com/?nid=59&sid=14755543#wmGTjPlUXjhoogMK.99
Proportion…if
you are hanging art above a piece of furniture it is generally advised
to not use art that is wider than the furniture. A general rule of
thumb is to aim for the artwork to be between 50-90% of the width of the
furniture below. 75% is ideal, but anything in the suggested range is
usually safe. If your ratio is less than 50% then the artwork is too
small, if your ratio is larger than 90% the art is too big. Exception:
If you are hanging art above a grouping of furniture that is close
together you would use the total width of the furniture as your
guideline.
· Height…a well known rule of thumb is to hang artwork at "eye level" however, this is often misleading as we all vary in height. A better guideline is to hang the art so that the center of the art is at eye level for an average person, generally 60-65" from the floor. Most often art is hung too high, so if in doubt…hang lower rather than higher. If you are hanging art above a sofa or a table you will usually want to have about 6-12" between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the art.
· Line….consider whether the space in question needs the illusion of horizontal expansion or vertical height, then choose your artwork accordingly. Diagonal lines are sometimes needed for spaces such as stairways. Areas that are irregular in shape and line are a great place for round artwork, mirrors or wreaths. Round shapes soften angular areas and help to avoid the problem of rectangular art looking crooked.
· Grouping… this can be tricky but can also have amazing visual impact. A group of pictures should be thought of as one cohesive "unit. An easy trick for creating a grouping is to trace each individual piece of art onto paper and then cut out the shapes. Using these paper shapes you can arrange them on the floor, or even directly onto the wall using some tape. This enables you to determine which arrangement you prefer without having to put dozens of extra nail holes in your wall. When you have found the desired configuration you can then lightly mark it onto your wall with a pencil.
· Tools for the job…my favorite hooks for hanging pictures are called "monkey Hooks" and they require no hammer or nail! These hooks are usually available at your local hardware store. If I am hanging art for a client I always make sure I have on hand a laser level, pencil, measuring tape, hammer, nails and picture hanging hooks for all different weights. If you have a picture that doesn't like to stay straight use some Sticky putty on the bottom corners. Adhesive felt pads are great to ha
Read more at http://studio5.ksl.com/?nid=59&sid=14755543#wmGTjPlUXjhoogMK.99
· Height…a well known rule of thumb is to hang artwork at "eye level" however, this is often misleading as we all vary in height. A better guideline is to hang the art so that the center of the art is at eye level for an average person, generally 60-65" from the floor. Most often art is hung too high, so if in doubt…hang lower rather than higher. If you are hanging art above a sofa or a table you will usually want to have about 6-12" between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the art.
· Line….consider whether the space in question needs the illusion of horizontal expansion or vertical height, then choose your artwork accordingly. Diagonal lines are sometimes needed for spaces such as stairways. Areas that are irregular in shape and line are a great place for round artwork, mirrors or wreaths. Round shapes soften angular areas and help to avoid the problem of rectangular art looking crooked.
· Grouping… this can be tricky but can also have amazing visual impact. A group of pictures should be thought of as one cohesive "unit. An easy trick for creating a grouping is to trace each individual piece of art onto paper and then cut out the shapes. Using these paper shapes you can arrange them on the floor, or even directly onto the wall using some tape. This enables you to determine which arrangement you prefer without having to put dozens of extra nail holes in your wall. When you have found the desired configuration you can then lightly mark it onto your wall with a pencil.
· Tools for the job…my favorite hooks for hanging pictures are called "monkey Hooks" and they require no hammer or nail! These hooks are usually available at your local hardware store. If I am hanging art for a client I always make sure I have on hand a laser level, pencil, measuring tape, hammer, nails and picture hanging hooks for all different weights. If you have a picture that doesn't like to stay straight use some Sticky putty on the bottom corners. Adhesive felt pads are great to ha
Read more at http://studio5.ksl.com/?nid=59&sid=14755543#wmGTjPlUXjhoogMK.99
Proportion…if
you are hanging art above a piece of furniture it is generally advised
to not use art that is wider than the furniture. A general rule of
thumb is to aim for the artwork to be between 50-90% of the width of the
furniture below. 75% is ideal, but anything in the suggested range is
usually safe. If your ratio is less than 50% then the artwork is too
small, if your ratio is larger than 90% the art is too big. Exception:
If you are hanging art above a grouping of furniture that is close
together you would use the total width of the furniture as your
guideline.
· Height…a well known rule of thumb is to hang artwork at "eye level" however, this is often misleading as we all vary in height. A better guideline is to hang the art so that the center of the art is at eye level for an average person, generally 60-65" from the floor. Most often art is hung too high, so if in doubt…hang lower rather than higher. If you are hanging art above a sofa or a table you will usually want to have about 6-12" between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the art.
· Line….consider whether the space in question needs the illusion of horizontal expansion or vertical height, then choose your artwork accordingly. Diagonal lines are sometimes needed for spaces such as stairways. Areas that are irregular in shape and line are a great place for round artwork, mirrors or wreaths. Round shapes soften angular areas and help to avoid the problem of rectangular art looking crooked.
· Grouping… this can be tricky but can also have amazing visual impact. A group of pictures should be thought of as one cohesive "unit. An easy trick for creating a grouping is to trace each individual piece of art onto paper and then cut out the shapes. Using these paper shapes you can arrange them on the floor, or even directly onto the wall using some tape. This enables you to determine which arrangement you prefer without having to put dozens of extra nail holes in your wall. When you have found the desired configuration you can then lightly mark it onto your wall with a pencil.
· Tools for the job…my favorite hooks for hanging pictures are called "monkey Hooks" and they require no hammer or nail! These hooks are usually available at your local hardware store. If I am hanging art for a client I always make sure I have on hand a laser level, pencil, measuring tape, hammer, nails and picture hanging hooks for all different weights. If you have a picture that doesn't like to stay straight use some Sticky putty on the bottom corners. Adhesive felt pads are great to ha
Read more at http://studio5.ksl.com/?nid=59&sid=14755543#wmGTjPlUXjhoogMK.99
· Height…a well known rule of thumb is to hang artwork at "eye level" however, this is often misleading as we all vary in height. A better guideline is to hang the art so that the center of the art is at eye level for an average person, generally 60-65" from the floor. Most often art is hung too high, so if in doubt…hang lower rather than higher. If you are hanging art above a sofa or a table you will usually want to have about 6-12" between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the art.
· Line….consider whether the space in question needs the illusion of horizontal expansion or vertical height, then choose your artwork accordingly. Diagonal lines are sometimes needed for spaces such as stairways. Areas that are irregular in shape and line are a great place for round artwork, mirrors or wreaths. Round shapes soften angular areas and help to avoid the problem of rectangular art looking crooked.
· Grouping… this can be tricky but can also have amazing visual impact. A group of pictures should be thought of as one cohesive "unit. An easy trick for creating a grouping is to trace each individual piece of art onto paper and then cut out the shapes. Using these paper shapes you can arrange them on the floor, or even directly onto the wall using some tape. This enables you to determine which arrangement you prefer without having to put dozens of extra nail holes in your wall. When you have found the desired configuration you can then lightly mark it onto your wall with a pencil.
· Tools for the job…my favorite hooks for hanging pictures are called "monkey Hooks" and they require no hammer or nail! These hooks are usually available at your local hardware store. If I am hanging art for a client I always make sure I have on hand a laser level, pencil, measuring tape, hammer, nails and picture hanging hooks for all different weights. If you have a picture that doesn't like to stay straight use some Sticky putty on the bottom corners. Adhesive felt pads are great to ha
Read more at http://studio5.ksl.com/?nid=59&sid=14755543#wmGTjPlUXjhoogMK.99
The Reno Report - The After Kitchen
3/19/14
I am very excited to finally share these before and after pictures of our home kitchen. to help give this some perspective here are a couple of reminder photos of what this space looked liked when we first saw it and then purchased the home. it's a galley style kitchen, so it's long and narrow. our main goal was to brighten the space and add a little bit of a modern facelift without sinking a ton of money into it. click here to view our inspiration board from this old post. some of the cabinet space didn't justify being there, so after we moved in we spent a couple months planning how we needed the space to function and where we needed things to be. this gave us a focus on what needed to be included, removed and how to make it all a little more friendly and multifunctional.
again much like the rest of the house, as new home owners we really want to work with what we have for a few years. we started by pulling off the old cabinet doors and hiding those old wooden handles and exposed trim along the ceiling and floors with fresh white paint. following that we freshened them up even more by adding sleek stainless steel pulls. with the help of our family we painted the walls a nice soft buttery yellow and cleaned up the window and baseboard trim with more of that clean white paint. we then removed the old dusty metal blind from the window over the kitchen sink and added white linen french bistro style curtains. we love natural night, so aside from the one window we decided to leave the bay window bare. it's heaven. a few months ago we were also fortunate enough to source a really great dishwasher on a major sale and scooped it up fast so we could retire the off-white old one (it sadly had rust inside it causing spots on all the dishes).
what
you now see as our morning coffee bar used to be a very narrow worn
out broom closet. since that cabinet literally could only fit a broom and held the light switch for the room, we agreed to rip it out and replaced it with the all white and wood top
butcher block on wheels that we sourced from the Cuisinart line at Canadian Tire. i'm still impressed at how well it blends in the space. we added two stainless steel
shelves above for our coffee cup display. this is easily my favourite spot in the kitchen. it added a great focal point to the room and an unique way to add some storage space.
as you can see we also had a section of unused space in
the corner beside the bay window seat. here we placed a smaller waist
height cabinet (also butcher block style and on wheels) that came from Canadian Tire. we then custom fit shelving above for additional small item storage. this help us to maximize
every corner we could for storage space in the kitchen, freeing up counters. helpful hint - if you find you don't have enough
storage, the best thing to do is look up. add a shelf over doors
ways for cook books or, platters. adding height can also make the room
feel taller and more spacious.
we feel inspired cooking and creating in this space. it's comfortable when we have parties, and we love entertaining. it feels refreshed and bright and clean and that's what we love the very most.
What we used!
- Paint - Benjamin Moore, Dijon
- Trim Paint - Benjamin Moore, Cloud White
- Cabinet Pulls - Home Depot, Satin Nickel
- Linen Curtains - Handmade
- Magnetic Knife Rack - Ikea, Gruntal
- Table - Craigslist
- Chairs - Ikea, Ingolf
- Cabinet Butcher Blocks on Wheels - Canadian Tire, Cuisinart
- Hanging Planter - Etsy, Monique Cote
The Reno Report - White Kitchens
1/27/14
our kitchen before ...
our inspiration board after weeks on pinterest ...
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| images via |
the update list we are tackling includes:
- paint old wood cabinet handles white and add cabinet pulls
- remove the blind over the sink and add curtains to the window
- removed useless and extremely small small broom cabinet (that actually only fits a broom)
- paint the yellow hoodfan
- change old light fixtures
- hang some small fun art/images
- change out old not working properly dishwasher
- maximize or increase storage space to the fullest potential
- paint ceiling a nice bright white
i would love to see your before and afters, link them in the comment! what does your dream kitchen look like?
Trending: Designer Landon Dix
12/12/13
if you haven't already heard of Landon Dix, you may just want to check this out before the holidays. recently i came across the newly revamped online shop/website and i can tell you right now that this has just become my go to store for more unique home accessories. when you just want something that has that ideal mix of sleek and a little retro, then Landondix is it! you can check out the his whole website here - www.landondix.net
the online shop offers everything from furniture, accessories, rope work and to lighting. you can find the perfect home decor item for yourself or someone you know. based in Vancouver founder and designer Landon Dix was inspired by his surroundings, and with a place like the Vancouver North Shore as your backyard how can you not feel inspired. be sure to check his website often because the ideas and success of this growing shop is just beginning! I would highly recommend that Landon is one designer to watch. You also follow Landon on Facebook, or on Twitter too.
The Little Home Office That Could
12/4/13
sometimes people ask me where i blog from, well the answer is i blog from my newly completed little home office. when we bought our house, the space which is now our office, was used as a small spare bedroom for visiting out of town guests by the previous owner. since right now it's just the two of us sharing this home, and we have more bedrooms than we could need at the moment, we decided to turn this small space into a working library/home office. after a bit of brainstorming and strategic pinning we came up with the best design plan for what we envisioned for this area. before you renovate or redo any room, it's important to ask yourself what you need out of the space and assess what you want will make this area unique to you. what "things" will you need to house there? what's function does this room serve? how often will it be used? do you want a comfortable casual space, or a more formal one? it's important to plan properly in order to save yourself the extra hard earned pocket money, and the heart ache to redo it.
for us the answers quickly came down to maximum storage and function. we both do a lot of work from home so we definitely needed enough surface desk space that we could both easily spread out paperwork. secondly we needed to effectively store office supplies and keep all my art supplies within reach. we then came to realize that we have a TON of books that we needed to still unpack (after a year of having them in boxes). clearly in the modern age of kobo's and online readers, we still cannot pry ourselves away from good old hardcopy books. lastly, photography is a huge passion of mine (which you can see more of here), so we wanted a place to store reference books, old photographs, albums and camera equipment all together.
much like the "pinspiration" images above, we agreed on creating a cozy dark space, with deep rich tones and library inspired wall-to-wall shelving. as a finished space we wanted it to feel an inviting place to work
to give you some background, here is the room before ....
and here is what it looks like today!
i LOVE how this turned out. the room immediately looks so much bigger than before. after a bit of back and forth with the furniture placement, we finally figured out that the L-shaped layout of desks was the configuration that maximized the best working surface space. by also mixing Ikea Expedit and Ikea Billy shelving with the Rubbermaid track shelving for it not only create a healthy balance of visual depth and interest, but it also quickly increased our storage space and achieved the library look we were after. much the opposite of what you might think, ceiling to floor shelving in a small space can actually increase the visual height and width of a room. the trick is just to keep the shelving to two or three walls. if you can't use shelving, stack diploma's or a series of framed abstract art above a desk up to draw the eye up towards the ceiling and around the room. in this office we wanted to go with a dark and cozy feeling which is why we painted the walls light and used a blended mix of warm wood tones and dark brown/black to off set the colourful books and objects that adorn the shelves. as a helpful tip create the look of a bigger space in a small room, paint shelving in a tone the same or similar to that of your wall colour. now that this room is finally organized, I love coming into this office and working in this space. in fact, i the day we brought home the small succulent plants for the office was the day this room officially finally felt finished to me!
now every time we go in our library home office, we feel organized, at ease and ready for business.
Our Office Supply List
- Ikea - Expedit Shelves
- Ikea - Billy Bookcase
- Rubbermaid Fast Track Upright
- Home Depot - Goodfellow MDF Black Shelving
- Honey Brown Maple Desk (created by a family member!)
- Ikea Micke Desk
- Benjamin Moore Paint - Barren Plain
- Hampton Bay Egon Ceiling Mount Light
- West Elm - Wire Mesh Storage Baskets
- Amazon - Tech Tools Madness Series Stop Hand Bookends
- Storage Solutions - Birger Drawer Storage in Grey
- Overstock Dali Native Bamboo Roman Blind
Wallpapered Dining Accents
11/11/13
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in our home our main living room and formal dining area inhabit the same open space, and while i love the open concept, I do feel we need to better visually define these two areas. luckily, we have one short wall that backs against the hallway/entryway, and on the other side is this formal dining space we speak of. the eating area is very narrow in comparison to other homes with dining rooms, so we can't house extra furniture like a buffet or shelving without having guests bump into everything getting in and out of chairs. however, since you can't see the dining space from the hallway we thought why not take this opportunity to do a feature wall on the short wall. this way as you come around into the living/dining room, you will a) be surprised by the wallpaper accent and b) feel a separation between the open living space and intimate dining space. lots of people will argue that wallpapering is a huge hassle, but in fact wallpaper has recently made a serious come. especially some of the more mod style or art deco designs with metallic accents (think great gatsby style). there are a ton of options and price points to choose from and a variety of stores,. even pre-pasted wallpaper has gotten easier to hang than it was before. so really, why not give it a try.
i've been learning more and more that interior design is all about proportions, textures and colours, and great design is about how you cleverly play with the combination of those three. wallpapering is still one of the fastest and dramatic ways to transform a space. as much as some may advise that stenciling is easier (especially if you want to remove it later), wallpaper gives you that extra bit of texture that i just don't think you can always achieve with paint. besides, i'm not sure i have a steady enough hand needed to tackle stencils.
the one piece of advice I can give is make sure when you pick a wallpaper that you try and tie a few colour elements from the paper throughout the rest of the room. that isn't to say you can't do three white walls with an accent bold navy wallpaper, but if you do, be sure to incorporate a few elements of that navy in a few small accents around the room to help visually tie it all together.
so, i think we might just give this wallpapering a go! has anyone else used wallpaper recently or are thinking of a project? I would love to see and share any before and afters!
helpful hint - need to remove old wallpaper first? use a mix of equal parts water and Windex in a spray bottle. then spray on surface and let sit for 1 -2 minutes, then take your scraper and voila! old wallpaper comes off easier than you could imagine.
Renovations: Let's Bench It
11/6/13
please don't judge me by this horribly fast slapped together photoshop job of our master bedroom, but i wanted to share with you what we are hoping to do. now that the major reno's in this room are completed, we are well into the fun decorating phase. always my favourite phase, of course. much of the furniture we currently have (outside of the bed frame and mattress) are borrowed from our lovely family until we find pieces that best fit our needs. in this awkward adaption you will see that we are on the hunt for a vintage looking rug, wooden side tables, wall mounted lamps, light coloured curtains and .... the debate of all debates - a bench/benches.
in short, we know we want to add either two small stools or one longer bench at the end of the bed, but we just can't seem to decide what is better. we love the idea of having a place to sit and put our socks or tights on, and a location to house all the decorator pillows before bed (off the floor). as always we want to find something that is multifunctional, since we are all about investing in timeless pieces that we can use and reuse in a variety of ways in years to come. something classic and simple that will create a nice visual accent to the room. that can't possibly be that hard to find right? well now the hunt is on... and i'm open to any and all suggestions that you readers have. what option do you think would fit our space best? does anyone have either and do you find you use it?
since i haven't yet shared any before and afters of our master bedroom, here are a few photo's from the walk through before we bought it, up until where we are current at (minus the dresser).
to help understand where we have come from to where we are, here is a bit of a breakdown. the upstairs in our home was fully carpeted so we jumped at the opportunity to replace it with this beautiful maple hardwood before moving in, which matches what we already have downstairs. in the midst of pulling up rolls of old carpet, we had this genius idea to remove all the stucco (otherwise known as the evil popcorn finish) off the ceilings. scraping off stucco creates a HUGE mess. so much of a mess that you wouldn't dream of tackling this after you move all your stuff in without the help of a professional. so, hence why we jumped to try our hand at this DIY project before the floors went in. techniques on how to remove stucco is a whole other dedicated post that i will happily share in the future, but as a starting point invest in a good dusk mask.
once all that demo needed was done in the room, walk-in closet and ensuite (see our ensuite before and after here), we then got the ceiling painted and moved on to picking out a wall colour. we knew we wanted something dramatic. something that wasn't overly masculine or overly feminine, but a colour that would create a cozy and modern feeling. after days of hunting out paint swatches we finally landed on this very dark purple from Benjamin Moore. i think at the time our family literally thought we were crazy, and i will admit i had my fair share of "crap what did we do" moments as we were applying the paint, but the truth is i really love this aubergine colour. it is rich in the winter, cool in the summer and it has undoubtedly created a cave like sanctuary that we love going to at the end of a long day.
at the time that we moved, we also bought a bed together and decided to go for a king size. i was positive it wouldn't fit (and was WAY too big) but my better half was determined that it was now or never, and that we 100% could make it work. as nervous as i was on when it got delivered it fit perfectly, with a surprising amount of room to spare for night tables on either side.
now that the fundamentals are in place we are trying save up (yup, i said save up because let's be realistic these things take time and you gotta hunt for the right deal), for a dresser and night tables. we saw some beautiful ones like this Post and Rail rustic style at Urban Barn that you can check out here. but while we have all that in mind, we are still on the endless search (and decision) for the best bench/stool or something at the end of the bed, and a few other timeless design elements that will help bring this whole room together. a renovator's work is never done, am i right?
** I will post more before and after photo's once the whole room is done**
Upcoming Trends for 2014
10/16/13
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Worldwide colour authority and grandfather of consistency, Pantone, recently release it's Fashion Colour Report for Spring 2014 and these 10 above are the voted winners to watch out for. to those of you who might already follow colour trends you already know that Pantone release the colour of the year for 2013 which was Emerald. for the spring report there is clearly a strong pairing between bright bold eye catching colours and softer more muted and delicate pastels. my personal favourite is by far the Hemlock choice. it's soft and fresh and just that little dab of retro that is so popular. we actually just painted our living room with this colour, not even knowing about this report, and i'm loving how this tone looks on a wall. i know spring is still a few seasons away, but i'm already excited to see this colour palette hit the shelves, between home decor stores and fashion finds. which one is your favourite?
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